Pattern Grading
Patterns are usually graded after a manufacture makes a sale to a retail store. The reasoning behind this is that there is no reason to grade the pattern if the style does not
sell.
There are two basic ways to grade a pattern, one is manually, and one is by computer. Both ways work. Computer pattern grading is usually done on the Gerber system, which, is the most widely used system used in making, and grading patterns.
Before a pattern is graded, the manufacturer must decide on the measurements for each size graded. In other words, one manufacture may go up 1” in the waist for the next size, another manufacturer may go up 1.5” The grading system for each manufacture is different, and is one of the things that makes the manufacturer unique.
When grading a pattern, many points are taken into consideration. As, if we decide to add .5” to an arm hole, the .5” must be distributed equally. In a nutshell, the measurements and points that we use, how, where and how much we will add or subtract, are called our grade rules. Each point has a rule, and these rules are entered into the Gerber system, or done by hand for each pattern. After a manufacture determines the grade rules, then they are stored in the Gerber system, and used for the next pattern. Not all grade rules will be used for every pattern, and, new patterns might require more grade rules to be written. One caution to new manufacturers: if you don’t know what you want for your measurements, then the grader will use what he/she thinks your measurements should be, or , he or she would just use the grade rules he or she has on hand.
Here is a size chart that I created for the size medium, as you can see, there is a big
difference between manufacturers.
http://apparelmanufacturingmanagement.blogspot.com/2010/10/size-chart-comparison-of-size-m-medium.html
You can expect to pay at least $150 per style for grading, and, the price will be more in the beginning, as you develop your grade rules and measurements. Also, grading prices will depend on how many pieces you need to grade, and, how many sizes you are grading. Sizes S-M-L-XL are usually for less expensive clothing.
After you pattern is graded, and you have an order, you will need to mark you pattern. This is when you lay out the pieces for cutting. Marking can be the difference in making a profit, and not, as, wasting fabric, and paying for fabric you don’t need, or use, can eat away all your margin.
