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| Calvin Klein, made in Indonesia |
Garment Country of Origin Study
by: Carla Buchanan
This study will compare and contrast three garments manufactured in the USA with three garments that are manufactured in three other countries: Indonesia, China and Cambodia. The garments studied represent three categories of apparel: missy tops, men’s blazers and women’s jeans. The garment analysis will include the quality of the garments, fabric content, trims and embellishments, the market for which the garments were produced, and the price of the garments. An explanation will be given for the found differences. Images are included in this study.
The missy tops in this study include a long sleeve, v-neck top, by NY Collection, made in the United States, and a long sleeve, v-neck top, by Elementz, made in Indonesia. The NY Collection top, retail price of $36.00, is of average quality and made of 94% rayon, 6% spandex. The top included a self fabric tie trim on the center front, and it was produced for the moderate market, sold at Macy’s. The Elementz top, retail price of $44.00, is also a long sleeve, v-neck top, made of 95 % polyester and 5% spandex. There is a row of beads (trim), on the center front, and it was produced for a moderate market, sold at Macy’s. In comparing the two missy tops, both produced for the moderate market and both sold at Macy’s, some differences were found. The top made in the USA, NY collection, is made of rayon and the Elementz top is made of polyester. According to Maderia Resource Management, rayon is slightly more expensive than polyester, but runs fast on machines, therefore, reduces production time. This comes as a surprise, as the NY Collection top, made in the United States, made of rayon, is less expensive than the Elementz top, made of polyester and made in Indonesia. The trim on the NY Collection to is made of self fabric, and the trim on the Elementz top is comprised of a string of beads. The NY Collection top trim is sewn on by machine and the beads of the Elementz top are attached with a loop of fabric. The trim of the NY Collection top required more labor, therefore, the higher price is expected. There were loose treads found on both garments. In conclusion, the results of the study of the missy top were surprising. The garment manufactured in Indonesia, the Elementz top, at $44.00, is 19% more expensive than the NY Collection top manufactured in the United States, at $36.00. Considering the NY Collection top is manufactured in the United States and contains slightly more expensive fabric, one would assume that it would command a higher price tag. Consumers, in this case, would find a better value foregoing the bead trim of the Elementz top and choosing the NY Collection top.
The blazers in this study include Brooks Brothers Two Button Classic Blazer, manufactured in the United States, and Alan Flusser linen Two Button Blazer, manufactured in China. The retail prices are: Brooks Brothers: $528.00 Alan Flusser: $325.00. Both blazers have two buttons, center back vent, and classically tailored. Both blazers were manufactured for the bridge market, or, the market slightly about the moderate market. The Brooks Brother blazer is made of pure Italian wool (100%), lining: undisclosed, and the Alan Flusser blazer is made of 100% linen, lining 55% polyester, 45% viscose. It is difficult to compare the price of wool vs. linen, as the price depends of the quality of the fabric. Therefore, this study will focus primarily on the construction of the blazers. The Brooks Brothers blazer has flap pockets and very simple construction on the inside of the blazer. In contrast, the Alan Flusser blazer has welt pockets are extremely detailed construction on the inside of the blazer, including a surprise print lining the sleeves. The Alan Flusser blazer offers the consumer 4 welt inside pockets trimmed with buttons, the Brooks Brother blazer offers two simple inside pockets. The Alan Flusser blazer offers decorative hand stitching and trim in the lining, the Brooks Brother blazer, although very classic and well made, does not offer anything special in the inside of the blazer. Considering the price, the Brooks Brother blazer, made in USA, $528.00, a wooping 39% more than the Alan Flusser blazer, made in China, $325.00. The Alan Flusser blazer, with the detailed inner pockets and trim, is a better value for the consumer.
The jeans in this study are women’s jeans, AG (Adriano Goldschmied) manufactured in South Gate, California, USA, and Calvin Klein, manufactured in Cambodia. The retail prices are AG jeans: $185.00, and Calvin Klein jeans: $59.00. The AG jeans are made of 100% cotton and the Calvin Klein jeans are made of 69% cotton, 30% polyester, and 1 % elastane. The style of the jeans is very similar, with 5 pocket and stitching on the back pockets. The fit is similar also. The AG jeans offer a softer hand. The difference in the two brands of jeans is hidden. The AG jeans are manufactured by Koo’s in South Gate, California, USA. This manufacture goes to extra steps to insure that AG jeans are different from their competitors, such as Calvin Klein. Many of the steps that AG jeans have been through, are not apparent at first glance. For instance, the fabric goes through a series of fabric testing before it is made into the jeans. This step costs money and most jean manufactures skip this step. Also, the fabric is rolled out on a large table (to relax) before it is cut. As far as details, extra measures are taken to insure that the buttons will not pop off AG jeans, and, the button flap is 3 ply. The waist band has extra interfacing so it will hold it’s shape. The logo is hand screened inside of the jean (very expensive.) AG jeans go through a quality inspection process where each jean is inspected, not just randomly inspected, as most apparel is. Some of these differences are apparent compared to the Calvin Klein jeans that are manufactured in Cambodia. For instance, when comparing the two, the waist band on the Calvin Klein jeans appears flimsy. Also,the button flap is only 2 ply. There is no hand stamped logo on the inside of the jeans. The threads are not trimmed as closely as the AG jeans. It is impressive that AG goes to such great pains to make their jeans special, however, considering that the AG jeans retail for $185.00, 68% more than the Calvin Klein jeans at $59.00, the consumer is getting a better value with the Calvin Klein jeans manufactured in Cambodia. More information available at apparelmanufacturingmanagement.blogspot.com.
It is getting increasingly difficult to find apparel manufactured in the USA. According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, apparel manufacturing industries in the USA are expected to decline by 48 percent through 2018. This labor intensive sector is especially vulnerable to competition from places like Indonesia, China, and Cambodia, as illustrated in this study. The reason for this is that other nations’ workers receive lower wages, and trade agreements make it easier for more apparel products to be imported into the United States.
Findings for this study suggest that USA consumers get more value for their money from goods produced in countries other than the USA. In this study, one of the garments studied, the missy top, was an exception to this theory, as the top made in the USA was deemed to be a better value than the top produced in Indonesia. However, some consumers may consider the bead trim on the top produced in Indonesia to be more desirable than the top produced in the USA.
Although the outlook is bleak for apparel manufactures in the USA, some are reacting to the changes. For example, some apparel firms are merging, or consolidating, to remain competitive. Others, like Koos, are coming with with innovative methods to improve their products as to make them more desirable to the consumer.
The consumer has the final say about the garments that he/she purchases. Some USA consumers value the fact that garments are produced in the USA with USA workers. They feel that, by purchasing garments manufactured in the USA, they are supporting the USA and their workers. The question then becomes, how much are they willing to pay for this? Are they willing to pay 68% more for jeans that are manufactured in the United States? And, how does the economy help them with their decisions? With the USA currently experiencing 9.6% unemployment rate, September, 2010, United States Department of Labor, can they really afford to pay 68% more for a pair of jeans?
Many thanks to my FIDM instructor, Mr. Martin Podway, for inspiring me to conduct and complete this study. Mr. Podway continues to be a role model to me. I would like to publicly express my deepest gratitude for his incredible leadership and instruction.
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| NY Collection, made in USA |
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| Brooks Brothers, made in USA |
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AG, made in USA
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Elementz, made in Indonesia
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Alan Flusser, made in China
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