Example of an Apparel Pattern Card or, A Face Card

Here is an example of a pattern card, or a face card. After the pattern maker has completed a pattern for a garment, he, or she, makes a pattern card, or face card. The card hangs in front of the pattern pieces. The pattern card serves as a record of how many pattern pieces are included in the design. Many times the fee for this is the same as making a pattern piece. If you are a manufacturing company, and you want to save money, you can make these yourself. This pattern card, or face card, serves several purposes. Considering that the card contains all the pattern pieces it takes to construct a garment, you can see, in a glance, the basic construction of a garment. The sewer, or factory, can use the pattern card, or face card, to keep track of the pattern pieces. Usually the pattern maker puts the sewing directions on the pattern card, or face card. This helps the sewer know what type of stitches you desire on the garment.
A word to the wise: when you get your pattern card, and pattern, back from the pattern maker, double check to make sure all the components of the design are represented on the pattern card before you leave your pattern maker. If there is a mistake, it will save you a trip back to see your pattern maker. I learned this one the hard way. I gave my pattern maker a sample cardigan and asked her to add pockets. She forgot, I walked away, and did not check my pattern card. Don't make the same mistake I did. Many hours can be saved simply by checking the pattern card.
Here is the example of an apparel pattern card, or, face card:

Pattern Card
Style #:	Date:	Size:
Style name:	Pattern Maker:	Sketch

Quantity	Self Pieces	special directions
Quantity	Ribbed Pieces

An Example of a Survey for an Apparel Start Up Company/Handbag

An Example of a Survey for an Apparel Start Up Company/Handbag

Before you develop an apparel product, such as a handbag, it is important to know who your target market is and what type of product they want. So many companies I talk to don't know who their target market is. The good news is, you can find out who your target market is, and what they want, by asking them. One of the ways to ask your target market about themselves is a survey. There are many companies out their who will do the work for you, but you can do it yourself.

Here is an example of a survey done for a handbag company that has an eco friendly light in the bag. Your survey will be different.

Handbag Customer Survey

by Carla Buchanan

1.Are you a female or male?

• A. female
• B. male

2.What age group are you in?

• A. 18 and younger
• B. 19-25
• C. 26-35
• D. 36 -55

             E. 56 plus

3.What is your family structure?

• A. Single
• B. Married
• C. Divorced

4.What is an average of your income?

• A. 20,000 and less
• B. 20,000-50,000
• C. 50,000-75,000
• D. 75-000-125,000
• E. 125,000-250,00
• F. 250,000 plus

5.What is your highest level of education?

• A. Never finished high school
• B. Associates Degree
• C. Bachelors Degree
• D. Graduate Degree

6.What types of stores do you prefer to shop in?

• A. Department Stores
• B. High End Luxury Stores
• C. Boutiques
• D. Anywhere there are sales!

7.What is you favorite luxury handbag?

8.How much do you usually spend on a handbag?

• A. $100  or less
• B. $100-$500
• C. $500-$1,500
• D. $1,500+

9.How many items do you, or your partner, have in your handbag right now?

• A. 5 or less
• B. 6-10
• C.11-20
• D. 21+

10.Would you like an eco-friendly light inside your handbag?

• A. Yes
• B. No
• C. Maybe

An Example of a Sample Letter to Buyer from an Apparel Manufacturing Start Up Company

An Example of a Sample Letter to Buyer from an Apparel Manufacturing Start Up Company

Buyer

Dick’s Sporting Goods

345 Court St.

Coraopolis, PA 15108

Monday, August 16, 2010

Dear Ms. Buyer,

I hope this letter finds you well.  It is with great pride, and excitement, that I want to introduce you to my newly formed company, Carla Buchanan, Inc. I have recently formed this company in order to manufacture a new line of yoga clothes, Days of Blue. The reason I designed these clothes, is because after six years of teaching yoga, I saw a need for clothes that women can wear out the door of the gym, or yoga studio, and go shopping, or other places that they have planned for the day. 

Days of Blue clothing is designed for active women, who practice yoga, and lead busy lives. These women want to look, and feel great, on, and off, the yoga mat. Days of Blue yoga clothes are designed for the yoga women, on the go! 

Days of Blue clothes are high quality and durable, which I know that Dick’s Sporting Goods customers demand. I would love to show you my new line. I am going to be in Corapolis on September 10. Can I come by your office and present Days of Blue to you?  I hope so! I will contact you in a few days.

Sincerely yours,

Carla Buchanan

Blank Cost Sheet Form Apparel Manufacturing Manufacturing, by Carla Buchanan

Cost Sheet
Date:	Style#:	Allowance: 1/8”
Description:	Season: Spring	Colors:
Size range:	Selling price:

Material	Yards	Price	Amount		Front/back
self
lining
Interfacing
Trimming	quantity	price	amount
labels, poly bags, hangtags, hangers, size tickets
Labor
cutting
sewing
grading
marking
total cost
mark up
wholesale cost

Fabric Finishing Terms for Denim and other Fabrics, with images, FIDM, Apparel Process II, 2

Distressed Wash : This finish is a wash given, usually to denim, that involves the partial removal, through wash and friction, of the superficial layer of indigo. The results are the look of jeans that have been through distressing times. 

Distressed Wash : This finish is a wash given, usually to denim, that involves the partial removal, through wash and friction, of the superficial layer of indigo. The results are the look of jeans that have been through distressing times. 

Sand Blasting: Sand blasting is done by machine. The sand blasting machine is designed to process the denim effect by spraying high pressure air and sand. Above is an image of jeans that have been sandblasted.

Garment Dye: Garment dying is the dyeing of complete garments. Garments that are garment dyed are usually non-tailored garments, such as sweaters, sweatshirts, T-shirts, hosiery, and pantyhose. Garment dying is done by placing several garments, like 24 sweaters, into a large nylon net bag. From 10-50 of the bags are placed in large tubs with dye. The dye is agitated by a machine called a paddle dyer.

Paddle dryer: agitates dye during the garment dying process.

Screen Printing: Screen printing is a technique that uses a woven mesh to support an ink blocking stencil.  A roller, or squeegee is moved across the stencil, forcing ink past the woven mesh.  The image is of a t-shirt that was screen printed.

Stone Wash: Stone washing is a process used to give a garment a worn out appearance. Stone washing also helps to increase the softness and flexibility of a garment. The process uses large stones to roughen the fabric. The garments are placed in a large clothes washer with the stones. The fabric is pounded and beaten as the tumbling stones ride up the paddles inside the drum and fall back on the fabric.

 Sublimation Printing: Sublimation printing is done with a computer. The computer employs a printing process that uses heat to transfer dye onto the fabric.  One advantage of sublimation printing is that the garments have a softer feel than other printing methods. The imprints are dye based, not ink-based, so the dye actually becomes part of the fabric color, embedded with the fibers. Image is of shirts that have been printed using the sublimation printing method. 

Apparel Manufacturing Management Production Terminology/FIDM/Apparel Process

• Bundling: Bundling is when the garments are stacked, after they are cut-out, and separated from the lay, they are folded and tied. Bundles are also sorted and grouped together according to pattern size.
• Cost Sheet: A cost sheet is included in the tech pack. A cost sheet is detailed and contains the prices of every component of the garment, including labor and markups.
• CMT:  CMT stands for cut, make and trim. The factories that provide CMT services provide the complete service of producing a garment. The factories cut the fabric, sew the garment, attach the trimmings like hangtags, buttons, labels, etc. Some CMT factories may subcontract some of the work, however, usually they will manage the entire production process. 
• Cutting ticket: 
• Fabric Inspection/Quality Control: Fabric Inspection refers to the process of inspecting the fabric that is purchased from the mill. It is good to inspect the fabric before it is spread for cutting. Some factories inspect during spreading, however, it may be unrealistic for the spreader to be responsible for the inspection. There are several good inspection systems for measuring the quality of fabric, two of the systems used are the Ten Point System and The Dallas System. There are many levels of fabric quality control. The AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, is a not for profit association serving textile professionals. Detailed quality control testing can be found on their web site: www.aatcc.org. One example of quality control for textiles is the abrasion resistance of fabrics, and there are many, many,more. 
• FOB: FOB stands for Freight on Board. This means that they are quoting you a price for the goods excluding the cost of freight charges and duty into the US. You will have to pay the freight, clearance charges, duty, etc. This can be an indication that the company you are dealing with is being brokered, but not in all situations.  Another consideration when purchasing good FOB is this. Is the price you are being quoted FOB factory or FOB port? In other words, does the price include freight to the port exportation? Usually, it is better to have the price FOB port and have the price include transportation to your freight forwarder at the port. 
• FOBQ: FOBQ means Freight On Board Including Quota. This means that you, the buyer of the goods, will pay all the costs associated with freight charges, duty, and quota premiums when bringing the goods into the US. 
• Full Package: Full package pattern making includes services such as first patterns, production patterns, marker grading, line sheet design, technical packages, flat sketching and product photography. One example of a full pattern and design service is Smart Pattern Making, Los Angeles, CA. 
• Importing: Importing is when merchandise is bought offshore and brought into another country to sell. In our case, the merchandise is brought into the United States.
• Inventory: Inventory is the current record made by a retailer or manufacturer of its goods or stock. Sometimes the current stock is referred to as inventory as well.
• LDP:LDP stands for Landed Duty Paid. This means that the factory quotes you were given for merchandise includes the freight charges to the US and includes duty charges as well. Duty is the tariff. 
• PLM: PLM stands for Product Lifecycle Management. This is software that is geared to the needs of the apparel industry. This is an all inclusive solution of software that consolidates design, production and business process management in a single environment. This software provides a centrally managed data system.
• Private Label: A private label is merchandise that includes a retailer’s label on a garment. The retailer has some, or full, control over the garment that is manufactured.
• Production patterns: A production pattern is the perfected first pattern that is ready and graded for production. 
• Quotas: An import quota is a type of protectionist trade restriction that sets a physical limit on the quality of a good that can be imported into a country in a given period of time. Some people say that quotas lead to corruption, smuggling, and result in higher prices for consumers. 
• Tariffs: Tariffs are taxes levied on imported or exported goods. There are many different types of tariffs, such as a specific tariff, a revenue tariff, a prohibitive tariff, a protective tariff, and an environmental tariff.
• Turn time: Turn time is the amount of time it takes to get the job finished. For example, for pattern making, hiring a full package company turn time is likely to be faster because the jobs can be done all at one time and place. 
• Wholesale Price-vs-Retail price: The wholesale price is the price charged by the manufacturer for the goods. The wholesale price is based on the cost to manufacture the goods, plus profit. The retail price is the full price the consumer pays for the garment in the store. 
• PDM: PDM (Product Development Management) is software that provides state of the art applications geared for the apparel, home furnishings, and accessory industries. 

Carla Buchanan and Nick Verreos FIDM

Carla Buchanan and Nick Verreos FIDM

I had the honor of taking a fit class from Nick Verros, FIDM.

This image is of Nick Verreos and a super model that he brought to class.

This is Nick Verreos, designer, explaining to me how to make this dress fit better.

This is Nick Verreos, designer, explaining to me how to make this dress fit better.

This is Nick Verreos, designer, explaining to me how to make this dress fit better.

This is an image of me, Carla Buchanan, showing off the skirt that I drapped in Nick Verreos' fit class at FIDM.

This is an image of a skirt that I draped in Nick Verreos' fit class/FIDM.

Below is a size chart  for size medium, by Carla Buchanan. The size chart compares the various measurements for size medium, for brands like Anne Klein, Anthropologie, Alfani, Calvin Klein, Chicos, Charter Club, Elieen Fisher, and more. I was inspired by Nick Verreos' fit class to create this chart.

Size Comparisons 2010/size Medium
Brand	found	bust	waist	hip
AGB	Macys	36-1/2	29	39
Anne Klein	Macys	35-36	29-30 1/2	39-40 1/2
Anthropologie	Anthropologie	37-38	29-30 1/2	39-40
Alfani	Macys	36-37	28-29	38-39
Calvin Klein	Macys	36 -37	28 1/2-29-1/2	38 1/2-39 1/2
Caslon	Nordstrom	37-38	29-30	39-40
Charter Club	Macys	36-37	28-29	39-1/4-40 1/4
Chicos	Chicos	39-40 1/2	33 1/2-35	42-43 1/2
Eileen Fisher	Nordstrom	37 1/2-39	30-31-12	40-12”-42
The Gap	The Gap	36 1/2-37 1/2
HSN	HSN	36-37	28 1/2-30	38 1/2-391/2
INC	Macys	36-37	28-29	38 1/2-39 1/2
JC Penny	JC Penny	35 1/2-37	27 1/2-29	38-39 1/2
JM	Macys	37-38 1/2	30-31 1/2	40-41 1/2
Jones New York	Macys	36 1/2-371/2	30-31	39-40
Karen Kane	Macys	35 1/2-36 1/2	27-28	38-39
Karen Scott	Macys	37-38-1/2	30-31 1/2	40-41 1/2
Kensie	Macys	35 12-36 1/2	27-28	37-38 1/2
Lauren	Macys	35-36	28-29	38-39
Liz  Claiborne	JC Penny	36 1/2-37 1/2	29-30	38 1/2-39 1/2
Macys chart	Macys	35 12-36 1/2	27-28	37-38 1/2
Michael Kors	Macys	34 1/2-35 1/2
Style & Co.	Macys	36 1/2-38	29 1/2-31	39 1/2-41
Theory	Nordstrom	34 1/2-35 1/2	27-28	37 1/2-38 1/2
Tommy Hilfiger	Macys	36
QVC	QVC	37 1/2-39-1/2	30-32 1/2	41-41 1/2

This is an image of Nick Verreos, designer and instructor at FIDM, LA. He is smart, talented and ever so funny.  Find out more about Nick Verreos by visiting his blog. To visit Nick's blog, click here.

Nick Verreos received national and international attention after appearing on Project Runway and has since enjoyed success as a red carpet fashion expert on E! Entertainment,TV Guide Network and SoapNet. Nick has also appeared on MTV’s The Hills, WB’s Crowned and Project Runway Canada and is a “Glam Squad Stylist” on MSN.com’s Style Studio.
Under his label NIKOLAKI, Nick Verreos and his partner David Paulhave designed gowns worn by Heidi Klum, Eva Longoria, Carrie Ann Inaba, Haylie Duff and comedianKathy Griffin as well as the gownMarlee Matlin wore to the 2008 Academy Awards. Their collection has been carried in over 100 stores including Nordstrom, Henri Bendeland Fred Segal.
Last December, Nick was one of the featured celebrities along with Ty Pennington, LL Cool J, and High School Musical’s, Vanessa Hudgens inSears’ “Grant A Wish” Commercialand this season he will be starring inKmart’s Holiday Shopping Campaign.