Size Chart, comparison of size M (medium) for major clothing brands

Apparel Manufactured in USA vs. China, Cambodia and Indonesia, a study

Calvin Klein, made in Indonesia

Garment Country of Origin Study

by: Carla Buchanan

This study will compare and contrast three garments manufactured in the USA with three garments that are manufactured in three other countries: Indonesia, China and Cambodia. The garments studied represent three categories of apparel: missy tops, men’s blazers and women’s jeans. The garment analysis will include the quality of the garments, fabric content, trims and embellishments, the market for which the garments were produced, and the price of the garments. An explanation will be given for the found differences. Images are included in this study. 

 The missy tops in this study include a long sleeve, v-neck top, by NY Collection, made in the United States, and a long sleeve, v-neck top, by  Elementz, made in Indonesia. The NY Collection top, retail price of $36.00, is of average quality and made of 94% rayon, 6% spandex. The top included a self fabric tie trim on the center front, and it was produced for the moderate market, sold at Macy’s. The Elementz top, retail price of $44.00, is also a long sleeve, v-neck top, made of 95 % polyester and 5% spandex. There is a row of beads (trim), on the center front, and it was produced for a moderate market, sold at Macy’s. In comparing the two missy tops, both produced for the moderate market and both sold at Macy’s, some differences were found.  The top made in the USA, NY collection, is made of rayon and the Elementz top is made of polyester.  According to Maderia Resource Management, rayon is slightly more expensive than polyester, but runs fast on machines, therefore, reduces production time. This comes as a surprise, as the NY Collection top, made in the United States, made of rayon, is less expensive than the Elementz top, made of polyester and made in Indonesia. The trim on the NY Collection to is made of self fabric, and the trim on the Elementz top is comprised of a string of beads. The NY Collection top trim is sewn on by machine and the beads of the Elementz top are attached with a loop of fabric. The trim of the NY Collection top required more labor, therefore, the higher price is expected. There were loose treads found on both garments. In conclusion, the results of the study of the missy top were surprising. The garment manufactured in Indonesia, the Elementz top, at $44.00, is 19% more expensive than the NY Collection top manufactured in the United States, at $36.00. Considering the NY Collection top is manufactured in the United States and contains slightly more expensive fabric, one would assume that it would command a higher price tag. Consumers, in this case, would find a better value foregoing the bead trim of the Elementz top and choosing the NY Collection top.

The blazers in this study include Brooks Brothers Two Button Classic Blazer, manufactured in the United States, and Alan Flusser linen Two Button Blazer, manufactured in  China. The retail prices are: Brooks Brothers: $528.00  Alan Flusser:  $325.00.  Both blazers have two buttons, center back vent, and classically tailored.  Both blazers were manufactured for the bridge market, or, the market slightly about the moderate market. The Brooks Brother blazer is made of pure Italian wool (100%), lining: undisclosed, and the Alan Flusser blazer is made of 100% linen, lining 55% polyester, 45% viscose. It is difficult to compare the price of wool vs. linen, as the price depends of the quality of the fabric. Therefore, this study will focus primarily on the construction of the blazers. The Brooks Brothers blazer has flap pockets and very simple construction on the inside of the blazer. In contrast, the Alan Flusser blazer has welt pockets are extremely detailed construction on the inside of the blazer, including a surprise print lining the sleeves. The Alan Flusser blazer offers the consumer 4 welt inside pockets trimmed with buttons, the Brooks Brother blazer offers two simple inside pockets. The Alan Flusser blazer offers decorative hand stitching and trim in the lining, the Brooks Brother blazer, although very classic and well made, does not offer anything special in the inside of the blazer.  Considering the price, the Brooks Brother blazer, made in USA, $528.00, a wooping 39% more than the Alan Flusser blazer, made in China, $325.00. The Alan Flusser blazer, with the detailed inner pockets and trim, is a better value for the consumer. 

The jeans in this study are women’s jeans, AG (Adriano Goldschmied) manufactured in South Gate, California, USA, and Calvin Klein, manufactured in Cambodia. The retail prices are AG jeans: $185.00, and Calvin Klein jeans: $59.00.  The AG jeans are made of 100% cotton and the Calvin Klein jeans are made of 69% cotton, 30% polyester, and 1 % elastane. The style of the jeans is very similar, with 5 pocket and stitching on the back pockets. The fit is similar also. The AG jeans offer a softer hand. The difference in the two brands of jeans is hidden. The AG jeans are manufactured by Koo’s in South Gate, California, USA. This manufacture goes to extra steps to insure that AG jeans are different from their competitors, such as Calvin Klein. Many of the steps that AG jeans have been through, are not apparent at first glance. For instance, the fabric goes through a series of fabric testing before it is made into the jeans. This step costs money and most jean manufactures skip this step. Also, the fabric is rolled out on a large table (to relax) before it is cut. As far as details, extra measures are taken to insure that the buttons will not pop off AG jeans, and, the button flap is 3 ply. The waist band has extra interfacing so it will hold it’s shape.  The logo is hand screened inside of the jean (very expensive.) AG jeans go through a quality inspection process where each jean is inspected, not just randomly inspected, as most apparel is.  Some of these differences are apparent compared to the Calvin Klein jeans that are manufactured in Cambodia. For instance, when comparing the two, the waist band on the Calvin Klein jeans appears flimsy. Also,the button flap is only 2 ply. There is no hand stamped logo on the inside of the jeans. The threads are not trimmed as closely as the AG jeans. It is impressive that AG goes to such great pains to make their jeans special, however, considering that the AG jeans retail for $185.00, 68% more than the Calvin Klein jeans at $59.00, the consumer is getting a better value with the Calvin Klein jeans manufactured in Cambodia. More information available at apparelmanufacturingmanagement.blogspot.com.

It is getting increasingly difficult to find apparel manufactured in the USA. According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, apparel manufacturing industries in the USA are expected to decline by 48 percent through 2018. This labor intensive sector is especially   vulnerable to competition from places like Indonesia, China, and Cambodia, as illustrated in this study. The reason for this is that other nations’ workers receive lower wages, and trade agreements make it easier for more apparel products to be imported into the United States. 

Findings for this study suggest that USA consumers get more value for their money from goods produced in countries other than the USA. In this study, one of the garments studied, the missy top, was an exception to this theory, as the top made in the USA was deemed to be a better value than the top produced in Indonesia. However, some consumers may consider the bead trim on the top produced in Indonesia to be more desirable than the top produced in the USA. 

Although the outlook is bleak for apparel manufactures in the USA, some are reacting to the changes. For example, some apparel firms are merging, or consolidating, to remain competitive. Others, like Koos, are coming with with innovative methods to improve their products as to make them more desirable to the consumer. 

The consumer has the final say about the garments that he/she purchases. Some USA consumers value the fact that garments are produced in the USA with USA workers. They feel that, by purchasing garments manufactured in the USA, they are supporting the USA and their workers. The question then becomes, how much are they willing to pay for this? Are they willing to pay 68% more for jeans that are manufactured in the United States? And, how does the economy help them with their decisions? With the USA currently experiencing 9.6% unemployment rate, September, 2010, United States Department of Labor, can they really afford to pay 68% more for a pair of jeans? 


Many thanks to my FIDM instructor, Mr. Martin Podway, for inspiring me to conduct and complete this study. Mr. Podway continues to be a role model to me. I would like to publicly express my deepest gratitude for his incredible leadership and instruction. 

NY Collection, made in USA

Brooks Brothers, made in USA

AG, made in USA

Elementz, made in Indonesia

Alan Flusser, made in China

"Freemales" - market analysis for the apparel industry

Market Research

Market Analysis

Carla Buchanan

Women 25-44

This is a consumer group that you can not afford to ignore. Sometimes this group is called the  “singleton” group. This is the group that is in a transitional state. According to the Euromonitor International, the number of single person households has been increasing by 12%. Why? Some say unbanisation is the main cause of this increase. Some say the increased social aspects of technology are responsible for this increase. 

Confident, young, working, independent women are opting for the single lifestyle. Sometimes this group is called “freemales.” Today, women worship freemale icons like Cameron Diaz, Kylie Minogue, Cameron Diaz has been quoted by saying, “I love being alone, and being myself, and, I am really good at it, too.” And,of course, there are the ladies in Sex and the City who portray a fun and exciting freemale lifestyle.

 Freemales are unmarried women, 25-44 years of age. This is a growing market, as , for the first time since WWI, unmarried women outnumber married women. And, along those lines, a quarter of women will never have children.  However, this is not always the case, Some freemales opt to remain childless, but  others are interested in having children. Sometimes they enlist the help of another female friend for support. The female support partner may not include a romantic interest for the freemale. Freemales may adopt, or, use donated sperm.  Currently, being childless is becoming more acceptable in society. There is less stigma about not having children.

Freemales are very interesting to researchers, as this segment of the population represents a shift in the human population. Single women are commonly found in cities, and, they take up a large number of housing units because, many times, they prefer to live alone. This puts pressure on the housing market to provide living spaces for the growing population of freemales. Single person homes will continue to rise the the next decade, as being single, and freemale,  is a huge social trend. This is a great market to target, as these women usually have careers and money to spend on clothing. So, this new market, freemales, having disposable incomes, can translate into growth for apparel companies, like ours, who target them. 

Taking a closer look, 40% of 30 single women are single. These women need clothing to fit their transitional lifestyle. It has been noted that sometimes these women are taken advantage of in the workplace, being asked to work longer hours. They are also discriminated against in the marketplace when it comes to credit card applications and car insurance.

Why do women prefer to remain single? There are a variety of reasons to consider. Sometimes women remain single because they desire a lifestyle that is unencumbered. This lifestyle allows them to spend more time with their single, female friends, and they do not have to shape their lives around the needs of their husband. In other words, they can spend Monday night watching DVDs instead of Monday night football. Other freemales just  enjoy a solitary life. Some freemales have not found a husband and just have decided to remain single. Maybe they waited too late. Some freemales are single by choice, and others living alone is something that just happened to them. Some freemales are divorced. 

There is a high price to pay for being single, however, Freemales do not have a spouse to share the expenses with, so they spend more than people who live a part of a couple.  And the happiness factor has to be taken into consideration. Studies show that single people are not as happy has married ones, and, studies also suggest that it is hard to have a good quality of life when you live alone. And what about the future? It has been pointed out that, as these women age, they may regret their choice and be sad, depressed, older women who wish that they had made a different choice. But don’t tell the freemales! They might get a little cranky. On the other hand, some studies, like the one funded by Economic and Social Research Council found that when the freemales turn 60, they are happier since they lived alone, and not with a partner. Happiness is in the hands of the freemale and time will tell. 

Freemales are a hot topic of study these days. Dr. Jan Macvarish, a sociologist, University of Kent, claims that changes in society have made it more acceptable for women to remain single. She also suggests that freemales are urban, educated females that are professionals.

The outlook is this, the world  better get ready for the freemales. Although they have lower incomes than their married counterparts, they still have disposable income to spend and they spend it on themselves. Brands that meet the lifestyles of the freemales are likely to prosper in this economy. Freemales are a consumer group that you can’t afford to ignore. 

Sex and The City Freemales Market Analysis

Google Ad Words Seminar in San Diego,FIDM

Google Ad Words Seminar in San Diego,FIDM

I am attending an all day seminar on Google Ad Words. Why? Probably because Mr. McKinney at FIDM got me going on this technology band wagon. Now I am educated on key words, landing pages, ecommerce, conversions and analytics. I am ready to launch an ad words campaign.

Also, I registered for my last quarter at FIDM. People say time at FIDM goes fast, but I don't really think so. I seems like the time went by just right!

Yesterday, all day, I was in class at FIDM, LA. I attended a fun trends class and worked on my sailor collar bodice patterns.

Life is good,

Computer Pattern Making, FIDM, important information

1. Value Mode: be in value mode when you want to use measurements, distance, or length.
2. Curser Mode: be in curser mode when you want to manipulate something that is already on the screen.
3. Control: When you are opening pattern pieces, control lets you select more than one pattern piece at a time, even if the files are not adjacent to each other.
4. Shift: When you are opening pattern pieces, shift allows you to select more than one piece at a time that are adjacent to each other.
5. You trace a piece in the clockwise direction.
7. internal line: grainline
8. F10 clears the screen.
9. You can tell a piece is mirrored by the dotted perforated line.
10. 3 different ways to make a piece bigger on your screen:
a. zoom in (tool box)
b. full scale (tool box)
c. go to view and select zoom in

11. edit: point: info: this lets the computer know which point you want to edit
12. Why do all pieces have a separate category? So you won't get them mixed up, some pieces look a like
13. How do you apply grade rules to collars? grade 1/2" per size
14. How do you apply grade rules to cuffs? grade 1/4" per size

How much would YOU pay for a necktie?

Hey guys, or gals that purchase neckties for their guy, please tell me how much you pay for neckties. Also, what is the MOST you have ever paid for a necktie?

New Apparel Manufacturing Business Start Up

 Are you starting an apparel manufacturing business? Consider Infinity Business Solutions. I recently contacted them regarding forming a new company. My husband, Allen, accompanied me. 
Infinity Business Solutions is a small-business consulting firm that specializes in working with business owners at every stage of their business development. Whether you are just beginning or are already up and running, Infinity Business Solutions will help you START, FUND, AND GROW YOUR BUSINESS! Lily told us that "Today’s businesses operate in an environment marked with challenges at nearly every turn. Infinity Business Solutions works with you to establish a solid and thriving business environment. By partnering with Infinity Business Solutions, you can focus on growing your business while systems, design, compliance, structural, and strategy matters are handled by Infinity Business Solutions."

The Attraction:
We were attracted to Infinity Business Solutions because we had heard that women owned businesses are now recognized as minority owned businesses and can qualify for government set asides if structured properly. We are very happy that we invested the time with Lily so that we will be mindful of thestructure.

The Meeting Highlights:
We discussed name choices, entity creation...sole proprietorship, C-Corp, Sub Chapter S-Corp a or a Limited Liability Company (LLC). Lily was careful to point our that each entity has legal, tax, and compliance issues that should be further discussed with accounting and legal advisors. Additionally we discussed procuring a tax ID number, a Dunn and Bradstreet rating (important for government work), and the nature of distribution channels, manufacturing processes, etc. Lily's services are billed on an "ad-hoc" basis which is important as the hourly bills aren't accumulated.

Personal Experience:
Lily and her husband DeShawn recently formed a chocolatier called"Grandma Betty's". Lily was a wealth of information on the "dos and don'ts of creating amanufacturing business. Please contact Lily. I know that you won't be disappointed! She can be reached at the below listed places:

Infinity Business Solutions
7327 Walnut Ave #A
Buena Park, CA 90620
United States of America
Bus: (714) 670-8941
E-mail: lotieno@ibsusaonline.com
(located in Orange County, CA, near Disneyland)

Lilly and DeShawn